GruppeM Air Intakes - A Perspective

[BeastPower]

In general, I would not purchase the GruppeM if you want to see a power increase and a sound improvement. The GruppeM's primary advantages are:

• Beautiful design; it will make your engine compartment look great.
• High-quality construction in Japan.
• Ram-air cone filter.
• Slight increase in HP (do not expect more than 5 to 8 HP).
• Slight change in induction sound (may be barely noticeable).

The GruppeM CAI should be seen as just one step in improving the flow of air into and out of the engine. The air-flow process starts with the CAI, goes to the Velocity Stocks, then to the Throttle Bodies, then to the Headers, then to the Cats, then to the Resonators, and lastly out of the Exhaust Muffler. This flow path has several bottle-necks, and just opening up the air-intake will not provide much of a power improvement.

If you do not want to open the entire air-flow process (as discussed above), but do want to improve power, then new Headers are the best option. If you just want to improve sound, then a new Exhaust Muffler is the best option.

Cheers, Daniel.

[shakazulu12]

Daniel,


What is your opinion of using the Gruppe M in conjunction with other intake systems such as the A.A. unit? I know you are now looking at over 2k for an intake, but throwing cost out the window, would this provide any advantages with airflow?

[BeastPower]

Originally Posted by shakazulu12

Daniel,

What is your opinion of using the Gruppe M in conjunction with other intake systems such as the A.A. unit? I know you are now looking at over 2k for an intake, but throwing cost out the window, would this provide any advantages with airflow?

We have seen M5 owners who have combined the Active Autowerke and GruppeM, and it seems to be a good option. Another good combo would be the Britalman and Active Autowerke CAI.

One problem with the GruppeM is that it employs an exposed filter design, which has minimal shielding. This may cause the warmer engine compartment air to enter the air filter, thereby not offering the best performance gains, when compared with a CAI that lets mostly cooler outside air into the filter.

Please also note that it is highly advisable to also install the UFMotorsport IATS regardless of which CAI is used.

Cheers, Daniel.

[M5 Maniac]

Originally Posted by BeastPower

Please also note that it is highly advisable to also install the UFMotorsport IATS regardless of which CAI is used.

Cheers, Daniel.

Daniel, what would you estimate the labor and complexity to run on an IATS install? Can this be done by one man with 'home' tools or does it require having it done at a shop? Does the front bumper need to be removed? Thx

[BeastPower]

Originally Posted by M5 Maniac

Daniel, what would you estimate the labor and complexity to run on an IATS install? Can this be done by one man with 'home' tools or does it require having it done at a shop? Does the front bumper need to be removed? Thx

Here is a list of the parts included and the tools needed:

Tools you will need:
- 8mm socket wrench
- 10mm socket wrench
- T50 Torx driver
- T20 Torx driver (optional)
- Electric hand drill
- ½” drill bit

Parts List:
- Temperature sensor
- Wiring harness
- 12mm nylon jam nut
- Red butt connector
- Blue 3-way splice connector
- Low Profile Wire ties (4)

You will need to remove the front bumper, and also the headlights. I have done this in the past, and it is trivial to remove the bumper and headlights. You may want to visit your BMW dealer and purchase some spare expanding plastic rivets (BMW part number: 51118174185). These are used to hold the bumper cover on, and sometimes break when being removed. They cost about $0.25 each.

Full and detailed installation instructions are included, and if you like DIY then it is fine to perform yourself. However, if you do not like DIY, then you should ask a professional shop to do this. Make sure to select a shop that has done this before, otherwise it will waste a lot of labor time, and end up costing a lot). If the shop has not done this before, show them the installation instructions beforehand to make sure you are confident in their ability. One needs to take care, as the installation of the wiring gets close to the DME.

Overall, this is one of the best mods for the M5 (e39), and is a very popular item.

Cheers, Daniel.

[M5 Maniac]

Thanks for the full details, Daniel. I will consider this, especially since our summers here on the East Coastr are hot and humid and there is plenty of heat soak that I have found retards the engine. Cheers

[PowerM]

Here I put some pics of my car and you can see the GruppeM fitted...





Is very easy to dismount and mount newly...

Cheers,
Felix

[cableguy]

Looking good PowerM

Now hurry up and get that dirty engine bay cleaned up...

C.

[Paradyme540i]

Ive had the Gruppe on my 540 for a while now & had MAF issues ever since the day it as fitted.........replace the Gruppe with the factory air box & all is well.
No idea as to why & neither does anyone else but hey ho!

[PowerM]

Originally Posted by cableguy

Looking good PowerM

Now hurry up and get that dirty engine bay cleaned up...

C.

Yeahhh!!!

Now it was clean, very clean...

Cheers,
Felix

[nerio02]

hy fellas , yes i got them too the gruppe m in kevlar but overhere in belguim it rains 50% of the time and i got mayor problems with the air mass meters (hope thats correct ) just behind the airfilters i mean. they broke every 2 months down from too mutch moisterizing on the sensor (water) sow i changed it also back too stock filters unfortunatly sounds great thouh but 800euro every two months was too mutch off the good

greetings from belguim keep the rubbers smoking
nerio02

[BeastPower]

Originally Posted by nerio02

hy fellas , yes i got them too the gruppe m in kevlar but overhere in belguim it rains 50% of the time and i got mayor problems with the air mass meters (hope thats correct ) just behind the airfilters i mean. they broke every 2 months down from too mutch moisterizing on the sensor (water) sow i changed it also back too stock filters unfortunatly sounds great thouh but 800euro every two months was too mutch off the good

greetings from belguim keep the rubbers smoking
nerio02

MAFS (Mass Air Flow Sensors) seem to begin to fail between 30,000 to 60,000 miles on the M5 (e39). Moreover, the M5 (e39) will start to exhibit poor performance at lower mileages, and a set of new MAFS can do wonders.

If one has to change their M5 (e39) MAFS, there is a much less expensive alternative than just visitng your BMW dealer. Remember that you will need 2 MAFS. The BMW replacement part includes the MAFS housing which does not need to be replaced. All you need to replace is the sensor. Some M5 (e39) owners have tried to clean their MAFS, however, this has not been successful, as the MAFS showed better performance for just a few days, and quickly returned to their previously poor state. Replacing the old MAFS with new MAFS is the only effective option.

The Following are Some Important MAFS Details:

Original BMW MAF Sensor:

• BMW OE MAFS Part Number: 13621433566
• Estimated Price (per MAFS): US$350.00 each
• Bosch Part Number: F 00C 2G2 029

Replacement VW MAF Sensor:

• VW MAFS Part Number: 06A 906 461 032
• Estimated Price (per MAFS): US$60.00 each
• Bosch Part Number: F 00C 2G2 032

The VW MAF sensor fits the New Beetle 1998 - 2001, Jetta 1999½ - 2001, Golf 1999½ - 2001 (fits A4 model VW's with 2.0L AEG engine and AWD 1.8T motors, early AWW motors, all VR6 12V and 24V).

M5 (e39) owners who have used the VW MAFS have not reported any problems. Except for an uneven idle (idle hunting), but this is only expected to last for approximately 20 to 100 miles after you install the new MAFS, as the DME (ECU) needs to adapt to the new MAFS. If the M5's DME (ECU) does not adapt itself, then some additional driving with some acceleration runs should help. If you want "help" the DME (ECU) to adapt, you may want to replace the spark plugs. It is also advisable to purchase a Peake Research tool which will allow you to check if there is an error code (SES light) and then to clear it if it is an "Air Fuel Adaptation" code. You can also visit your local BMW dealer, as they can clear the codes, so that the DME (ECU) will know that new MAFS have been installed.

When installing the VW MAFS, you will need to remove the sensor from the VW housing, which is quite simple using a Torx bit (6 point for the BMW MAFS and 5 point for the VW unit). Make sure to keep the new MAFS clean, as all MAFS (BMW and VW) are very sensitive to contaminants, especially oil. This code can appear for both the left and right MAFS, as each MAFS controls 4 of the 8 cylinders. Click HERE for details on the Peake tool.

The VW MAFS clip on the sides, while the BMW MAFS clip on the ends, which is likely why they have slightly different Bosch part numbers. However, the sensor fits tighly, so the clips being differnet is not an issue. During street driving the VW MAFS are secure, however, if you want to drive on the track, then cable ties are advisable in order to secure the VW MAFS in place.

Side Note 1: Dinan sells larger diameter MAFS tubes for the M5 (e39). These larger tubes use the stock stock sensor. Therefore, if your Dinan MAFS also exhibit problems, you can also use the VW replacement sensor.

Side Note 2: The MAF sensor also has a built-in air temperature sensor. The DME only uses the reading from one of the MAF sensors. The UFMotorsport IATS that we sell is a great modification, and will allow you to relocate the temperature sensor to a cooler location to allow for better performance. Click HERE for details on the UFMotorsport IATS. The IATS modification is not required in order to replace your MAFS, it is purely an optional performance upgrade.

Cheers, Daniel.

[nerio02]

Originally Posted by BeastPower

MAFS (Mass Air Flow Sensors) seem to begin to fail between 30,000 to 60,000 miles on the M5 (e39). Moreover, the M5 (e39) will start to exhibit poor performance at lower mileages, and a set of new MAFS can do wonders.

If one has to change their M5 (e39) MAFS, there is a much less expensive alternative than just visitng your BMW dealer. Remember that you will need 2 MAFS. The BMW replacement part includes the MAFS housing which does not need to be replaced. All you need to replace is the sensor. Some M5 (e39) owners have tried to clean their MAFS, however, this has not been successful, as the MAFS showed better performance for just a few days, and quickly returned to their previously poor state. Replacing the old MAFS with new MAFS is the only effective option.

The Following are Some Important MAFS Details:

Original BMW MAF Sensor:

• BMW OE MAFS Part Number: 13621433566
• Estimated Price (per MAFS): US$350.00 each
• Bosch Part Number: F 00C 2G2 029

Replacement VW MAF Sensor:

• VW MAFS Part Number: 06A 906 461 032
• Estimated Price (per MAFS): US$60.00 each
• Bosch Part Number: F 00C 2G2 032

The VW MAF sensor fits the New Beetle 1998 - 2001, Jetta 1999½ - 2001, Golf 1999½ - 2001 (fits A4 model VW's with 2.0L AEG engine and AWD 1.8T motors, early AWW motors, all VR6 12V and 24V).


M5 (e39) owners who have used the VW MAFS have not reported any problems. Except for an uneven idle (idle hunting), but this is only expected to last for approximately 20 to 100 miles after you install the new MAFS, as the DME (ECU) needs to adapt to the new MAFS. If the M5's DME (ECU) does not adapt itself, then some additional driving with some acceleration runs should help. If you want "help" the DME (ECU) to adapt, you may want to replace the spark plugs. It is also advisable to purchase a Peake Research tool which will allow you to check if there is an error code (SES light) and then to clear it if it is an "Air Fuel Adaptation" code. You can also visit your local BMW dealer, as they can clear the codes, so that the DME (ECU) will know that new MAFS have been installed.

When installing the VW MAFS, you will need to remove the sensor from the VW housing, which is quite simple using a Torx bit (6 point for the BMW MAFS and 5 point for the VW unit). Make sure to keep the new MAFS clean, as all MAFS (BMW and VW) are very sensitive to contaminants, especially oil. This code can appear for both the left and right MAFS, as each MAFS controls 4 of the 8 cylinders. Click HERE for details on the Peake tool.

The VW MAFS clip on the sides, while the BMW MAFS clip on the ends, which is likely why they have slightly different Bosch part numbers. However, the sensor fits tighly, so the clips being differnet is not an issue. During street driving the VW MAFS are secure, however, if you want to drive on the track, then cable ties are advisable in order to secure the VW MAFS in place.

Side Note 1: Dinan sells larger diameter MAFS tubes for the M5 (e39). These larger tubes use the stock stock sensor. Therefore, if your Dinan MAFS also exhibit problems, you can also use the VW replacement sensor.

Side Note 2: The MAF sensor also has a built-in air temperature sensor. The DME only uses the reading from one of the MAF sensors. The UFMotorsport IATS that we sell is a great modification, and will allow you to relocate the temperature sensor to a cooler location to allow for better performance. Click HERE for details on the UFMotorsport IATS. The IATS modification is not required in order to replace your MAFS, it is purely an optional performance upgrade.

Cheers, Daniel.

yes i heard of the maf sensors of a vw but at that time i wasent sure what the prob was now i now it and when i got it again i will try your solution for sure thanks for your suggestion daniel love your beastpower site too but there is one thing missing iff i may sugest and thats cluthes i have some troubles with mine for the moment it bigins too slip in therd for the first 1000rpm when i flour it and when i replace it i want a special one . only the best for my beast plz lolllll any ideas ???? mmm thumbs up beastpowerrrrrrrrrrrr

greets nerio02

[zorba]

Originally Posted by Paradyme540i

Ive had the Gruppe on my 540 for a while now & had MAF issues ever since the day it as fitted.........replace the Gruppe with the factory air box & all is well.
No idea as to why & neither does anyone else but hey ho!

im thinking of getting the gruppe m air intake just reading your thread its put me off it a bit do you no off any other that would work wel in the b10 v8 , one guy has one fitted in his in another forum and thinks very highly of them and could you notice much better sound any advice thanks

[BeastPower]

Originally Posted by nerio02

yes i heard of the maf sensors of a vw but at that time i wasent sure what the prob was now i now it and when i got it again i will try your solution for sure thanks for your suggestion daniel love your beastpower site too but there is one thing missing iff i may sugest and thats cluthes i have some troubles with mine for the moment it bigins too slip in therd for the first 1000rpm when i flour it and when i replace it i want a special one . only the best for my beast plz lolllll any ideas ???? mmm thumbs up beastpowerrrrrrrrrrrr

greets nerio02

Thanks for the kind words. We now sell Clutch Masters clutches for the M5 (e39). You can view more details HERE.







Cheers, Daniel.

[BeastPower]

Originally Posted by zorba

im thinking of getting the gruppe m air intake just reading your thread its put me off it a bit do you no off any other that would work wel in the b10 v8 , one guy has one fitted in his in another forum and thinks very highly of them and could you notice much better sound any advice thanks

The only way to improve sound is with an exhaust. CAI, headers and supercharger do not make much of a sound difference, although this do make performance difference.

I know that this thread does make the GruppeM not seem like the best thing to buy, but please consider that the e39 is already highly tuned (except maybe for the 525i/528i), so a CAI can't be expected to do much on its own. A CAI, such as a GruppeM, can be a good mod when installed as part of a larger project that also includes headers, exhaust and new ECU (DME) software.

However, if you want better sound, a new exhaust is going to make a big difference. We do have one brand new GruppeM CAI (carbon fiber) for the 540i (e39) in stock, and would be willing to give you a $100 discount on it if you are interested in purchasing.

Cheers, Daniel.

[bhutch]

Daniel

In one thread you warn against the use of the oiled K&N's over dry stock replacement filters (my mechanic concurs BTW) but then you discuss combining the Gruppe M with the active autowork CAI which uses the K&N's. In combo the K&N's go away correct? So are you not recommending the Active Autowork CAI because of the K&N usage across the board? Also, in combo with the software upgrade is the investment worth the horespower gain?
Question & Concern: what about water ingestion into the engine via the low intake openings on the grill. I love the look of the installation but some have commented about the threat of water ingestion; unfounded??
Bill

[BeastPower]

Originally Posted by bhutch

Daniel

In one thread you warn against the use of the oiled K&N's over dry stock replacement filters (my mechanic concurs BTW) but then you discuss combining the Gruppe M with the active autowork CAI which uses the K&N's. In combo the K&N's go away correct? So are you not recommending the Active Autowork CAI because of the K&N usage across the board? Also, in combo with the software upgrade is the investment worth the horespower gain?
Question & Concern: what about water ingestion into the engine via the low intake openings on the grill. I love the look of the installation but some have commented about the threat of water ingestion; unfounded??
Bill

The Active Autowerke CAI comes with K&N filters, but are not required. So far it seems that premature MAFS failure has mostly been isolated to M5's that installed K&N filters with the stock CAI. Those who install them with the AA CAI don't seem to have problems. In general I am not a fan of using aftermarket filters, so if I were installing the AA CAI in my M5, I would not use the K&N filters.

When installing the AA CAI as a combo with the GruppeM CAI, the K&N filters cannot be used, as the GruppeM has built-in cone filters.

New ECU software is in general a good idea, but is not essential until headers or cams are installed. The AA CAI with software combo is nice since it comes as a system from a respected tuner for not much more cash. Noticable HP gains with the M5 are tough unless you purchase headers or a supercharger.

Water-ingestion is a potential problem which seems very rare (although it has happened to some M5s in the past), and really requires that you submerge the filters themselves. Unless you live in a climate that can lead to this, I would not consider water-ingestion a high-probability event. However, it also depends on how risk-averse you are, and clearly there is more risk with a non-stock CAI. I believe that the AA CAI has not been involved in a water-ingestion case. Some other CAIs seems to have greater potential for water-ingestion, such as Dinan, Britalman, GruppeM as they are an open-design. Also, with Dinan, the filter element sits very low in the front bumper which could make it more risky, but Dinan offers water-repellent filter covers. I have the Dinan CAI (with water-repellent filter covers) on my M5 and drive in the UK in the rain and don't give water-ingestion a second thought. Just don't take the M5 for a swim.

Cheers, Daniel.

[Evil Vanos]

I fitted my Gruppe M CAI myself 15-20mins you can hear a deeper growl when accelerating hard but I cant feel any big increases in acceleration but when you lift the bonnet

[BeastPower]

Originally Posted by Evil Vanos

I fitted my Gruppe M CAI myself 15-20mins you can hear a deeper growl when accelerating hard but I cant feel any big increases in acceleration but when you lift the bonnet

Yes, this is the feedback that others have also provided, and pretty much sums it up.

Cheers, Daniel.

[zorba]

Originally Posted by Evil Vanos

I fitted my Gruppe M CAI myself 15-20mins you can hear a deeper growl when accelerating hard but I cant feel any big increases in acceleration but when you lift the bonnet

i have also just had the gruppe m fitted to my car just wonderd did you notice any change in the engine idle speed ,i dont rnu the m5 i run the b10 alpina v8 simlar in some ways ,and have you had any MAFS problems
would appreciate your advice thanks.

[THE TRUTH]

Originally Posted by BeastPower

Yes, this is the feedback that others have also provided, and pretty much sums it up.

Cheers, Daniel.

I went ahead and put the KN's on. No problems so far. It's been about 6 weeks now. I think I'm going to do the Bimmian...

[nightkrawler]

hello guys, just stumbled upon this forum, very nice! i can't comment on the m5 but i have the gruppem on my 97 540i/6 and the sound of the exhaust is night and day from the stock airbox. the gm intake gave it a very nice growl, can't say it gave any increase in power though.
question for guys with these intakes, what is the service life of the filter in the intake? i've had it for about 2yrs and have cleaned it several times. it's still in good shape but im curious at to how long they usually last?
another question, for those of you with pre vanos m62's, where did you relocate the iats to when installing the gm intake? i double sided taped mine to the inside of the main air tube that delives air into the intake area. i was contemplating drilling a hole in the side of the intake and mounting the sensor there but am hesitant to drill into cf...
thanks

[THE TRUTH]

Originally Posted by nightkrawler

hello guys, just stumbled upon this forum, very nice! i can't comment on the m5 but i have the gruppem on my 97 540i/6 and the sound of the exhaust is night and day from the stock airbox. the gm intake gave it a very nice growl, can't say it gave any increase in power though.
question for guys with these intakes, what is the service life of the filter in the intake? i've had it for about 2yrs and have cleaned it several times. it's still in good shape but im curious at to how long they usually last?
another question, for those of you with pre vanos m62's, where did you relocate the iats to when installing the gm intake? i double sided taped mine to the inside of the main air tube that delives air into the intake area. i was contemplating drilling a hole in the side of the intake and mounting the sensor there but am hesitant to drill into cf...
thanks

Right on. I just ordered the Bimmian. Hope it works.